Monday, July 20, 2015
We woke up in a bay completely to ourselves, seeing about seven feet down into the water. Terry made a tent out of his sheets to hide from the biting bugs.
After getting up, Terry used the seawater to clean off the deck of the boat.
"People think sailing is an excursion," he began, "but I am seriously cleaning my boat more than I clean my apartment!"
I did not envy the deck work, but a swim was more than necessary for both of us.
"Put on your snorkling gear and check out the bottom of the boat!" Terry told me, excitedly.
It is quite an interesting perspective to see when you've been sailing for so long.
Terry tried to take underwater pictures with his iPad (in a watertight case), but the water interfered too much with the touch screen. I really regret not bringing my old digital camera and its case to take underwater pictures. Next time.
Now off to Korčula town! We made a reservation for a slip in the ACI Marina. Assuming it would be just as tight as Marina Kaštela, Terry took some time to practice reversing, since propwalk can really interfere with your accuracy.
As we left Pržina Bay, we turned a corner to such a majestic mountain on the island of Pelješac. It stood out above the rest of the landscape, as if to say, "Dobro došli!" Or "Welcome!"
As we neared the marina, we discussed how exactly we were going to med moor. One website said something about dropping anchor then backing up. We finally just texted Amir, a Croatian friend of Terry's former colleague.
"Do we drop anchor?" I asked Amir.
"No no no! Don't anchor in the marina!"
Turns out it was exactly like Marina Kaštela, in that the bow line was in the water. We just had to back her in.
There was a line of two boats waiting to enter the marina. Eventually they called us, and we motored in slowly.
"Terry, how about we turn around in that space so we can back in?" I suggested as we approached our berth. There was no boat on our starboard side, and I figured it would make the process easier. This turned out to be a great move.
The marina worker was waiting with a line for us. I gave him my stern line, which he looked into a ring on the pier.
"Lady, grab the line," he told me. I had to cleat that, then tie up the mooring line to the bow, which Terry helped me with.
The woman on the boat next to us pushed us away a bit when we nudged them with our fenders. Thank goodness we didn't have to do this when there were boats on both sides of us!
"Thank you!" Terry and I yelled to the marina worker and woman who helped us on her boat. Turns out our neighbors were on holiday from Belgium, and were chartering as well.
We stocked up on more water and food. Terry tried three places looking for ice, and finally found a woman who offered to give him two bags of ice. When he tried to pay, she declined, giving it to us as a kind gesture. Terry insisted and gave her somw kuna anyway. Then we began exploring the town of Korčula!
A stop at a cafe for a drink and fish with motar was warranted after the last few hours.
"What type of fish is it?" I asked the waitress.
"Gof."
Terry began a conversation with Nina, our waitress. "If you're ever in NYC, let us know!"
"That won't be possible," Nina told us. "I have this job and a two year old to take of with no husband."
Certainly makes me thankful for the opportunity that I have to travel to a place like Croatia.
As we continued to explore there were street shops galore. Paintings, magnets, olive oil, rakija liquer.
"Awww... " Terry saw the sailboats zipping through the water at what had to be 20-25 sustained knots of wind. "I want to be on the water!"
Go figure, that the day we spend at port is when the wind spees is the highest.
We saw a sign for a church, with a walk up tower. I knew instantly,
"We have to do this!"
There was a spiral staircase connecting the first and second floor, with a red light and green light at the entrance.
"Green light, let's go!"
The stairs were just wide enough for one fit person to pass through. An overweight person would certainly not make it through. On the second floor was a man collecting twenty kuna for an entrance ticket. Then on we went to the top.
This place would not be deemed safe in the U.S. Way too much of a potential safety hazard for someone who wasn't careful. By the time we reached the metal crate top, the wind was blowing at an incredible speed. To get to the outside stone walk around, you had to walk up a small ladder
"Take some pictures with my iPad!" Terry didn't come up initially, but after a few minutes he decided to come up. Again, only one person could fit the width. The wind pushed against the iPad.
"I think we've seen enough ." I decided. We walked back down.
"You owe me so much for that," he said with a relieved look.
"Why?"
"I'm afraid of heights."
Oops. I had no idea.
When we were at the top of the tower, we saw a bar on top of the fortress lookout, so we walked in that direction.
Another narrow walkup, but this time by ladder at the second floor to the top floor. However, unlike the church, this was practically a vertical climb to get up. How drunk people got down from the top without injury is beyond me. Very small space. Maybe ten tables that are for two people, but there was space to lean against the edge or sit.
Terry started chatting with the family next to us. Father, son and daughter. We must have spent almost an hour chatting with them. Nice British family.
"Where are you from?" He asked.
"New York."
"You don't look American. You're too fit!"
We shared sailing stories and watched the sun set together. Before we left, Yacht Week-esque kids came in with their wristbands, making the space filled with young people looking to party. Now onto finding a restaurant.
"How about this place?"
Terry found a restaurant with an assortment of fish at the entrance. Take your pick! Which is exactly what I did as he took it to the kitchen to prepare. Half an hour later, it was sitting in front me, cooked and ready to eat.
I had never eaten fish presented in its entirety before, so I waited for Terry to separate the head and the tail and slice the belly, opening up the filet.
We wandered the streets to hear a quartet of men singing, and then further down, a band! Turns out it was for Moreška, which is a sword dance. I have to make sure I see one of these in the future!
We topped off the night with some ice cream and then headed back to the boat.
"Do you see the fire over there?" Our boat neighbor told us. In the darkness beyond the marina, you could see an orange glow at Pelješac. Wildfires, like in California, are not uncommon, but unfortunate, nonetheless.
Loud music was pulsating from the party boat not far from us. So much for a quiet evening. It was a crowded marina, but as did other people, I slept outside on the cockpit bench once again.
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